My calendar says that autumn begins this Wednesday, September 23rd but my farmers markets tell me otherwise. Local eggplants, peppers, and the last of the summer’s tomatoes, produce we food writers wax on about during the summer months, will be around well into October. I’ve been looking back at some of my favorite dishes from Recipes for Health that showcase these ingredients. 

The first complex vegetable dish that I learned to make was ratatouille, the quintessential slow-cooked summer vegetable ragout made with eggplant, summer squash, onions, peppers, garlic and tomatoes from the South of France. I knew I loved cooking when I made it. It takes a little time and attention, but the transformation of these vegetables into a savory stew that tastes even better the day after you make it is so worth the effort. You can turn ratatouille into dinner by making it the focus of a grain-based big bowl. I use farro in this one but any grain will do.

Ratatouille isn’t the only Mediterranean summer stew. Travel around the region and you will find similar heady eggplant/tomato/squash/ medleys everywhere you go, each with a signature set of seasonings or techniques that make it identifiable as Greek, Turkish, Spanish, Italian. Italy’s caponata is a sweet and sour affair that is usually served cold or at room temperature. In Greece I learned to make briam, a layered medley of summer vegetables that also included potatoes and green beans. One of my favorite ratatouille-like dishes is Turkish turlü, a nuanced sweet and sour stew spiced with coriander seeds, cinnamon, fenugreek and paprika. I also love the rich Spanish mixture called samfaina, which is cooked for so long that it is almost like a confit.

I also love to use these vegetables for hearty deep-dish pies and quiches, or for simpler focaccia and pizza. One of my favorite homes for eggplant and peppers is this spicy baked Tunisian frittata, seasoned with harissa, cinnamon and cayenne. Serve it warm or cold; leftovers pack up well for lunch. A similar dish, a bit heartier, is this cumin-scented eggplant and red pepper gratin.

The Mediterranean isn’t the only place to look for eggplant recipes, of course. I see so many varieties of eggplant at my Asian markets and the Asian stalls at my farmers market. I use the eggplant in spicy grilled eggplant salads and in colorful stir-fries that might also include tofu and a rainbow of sweet and hot peppers.

The kids might be back in school and in every other way summer is definitely over. But it needn’t be, just yet, in your kitchen.