I’m back! I’ve been going through the pantry, taking stock of the staples that have been sitting around for too long and are begging to find a place at the center of my plate. I just found a bag of einkorn, a soft wheat berry called petit épeautre in France, that I bought last summer in Provence. Better use it up because I’m going back to Provence next month and will no doubt buy some more! I’ve made a couple of risotto-like dishes with it, one with mushrooms and one with asparagus and fava beans. It’s easier to make this kind of dish with einkorn than with rice because you don’t have to stir it. You won’t get the creamy quality of a real risotto, but you will get a dish with sensational texture and depth of flavor. The einkorn is soft enough to absorb the flavors of whatever broth you are cooking it in. Here it’s the intense broth obtained by soaking dried porcini mushrooms.
Einkorn “Risotto” with Mushrooms
Serves 4
1 cup / 200 g whole einkorn
About 1/2 cup / 20 g dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large shallot, finely minced
2 plump garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1/2 pound / 250 g cremini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
1/4 cup dry white or rosé wine
Salt to taste (about 3/4 teaspoon or more)
Freshly ground pepper
2 to 3 tablespoons minced Italian parsley
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan
1. Rinse the einkorn and place in a bowl. Bring 3 cups water or stock (chicken or vegetable) to a boil and pour over the einkorn. Leave to soak for 1 hour.
2. While the einkorn is soaking, bring 2 cups water to a boil, place the dried porcini in a bowl or a Pyrex measuring cup and cover with the water. Let soak 30 minutes. Line a strainer with cheesecloth and place over a bowl. Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out liquid. Rinse in a couple of changes of water and squeeze again. Chop coarsely and set aside.
3. Heat the oil over medium heat in a heavy straight-sided skillet or a wide saucepan and add the shallot. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 3 minutes, and add the garlic and thyme. Cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds, just until fragrant, and stir in the sliced cremini mushrooms and the chopped reconstituted porcinis. Cook, stirring often, until the fresh mushrooms have begun to sweat and soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the wine has evaporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Add the mushroom soaking liquid and the einkorn with its soaking liquid. Add salt to taste and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently, uncovered, stirring from time to time, until the einkorn is tender and most, but not all, of the liquid has evaporated, about 45 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings. Stir in the parsley and if desired, stir in some of the Parmesan (pass the rest for sprinkling). Serve in wide bowls or on plates.
Serves 4
1 cup / 200 g whole einkorn
About 1/2 cup / 20 g dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large shallot, finely minced
2 plump garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1/2 pound / 250 g cremini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
1/4 cup dry white or rosé wine
Salt to taste (about 3/4 teaspoon or more)
Freshly ground pepper
2 to 3 tablespoons minced Italian parsley
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan
1. Rinse the einkorn and place in a bowl. Bring 3 cups water or stock (chicken or vegetable) to a boil and pour over the einkorn. Leave to soak for 1 hour.
2. While the einkorn is soaking, bring 2 cups water to a boil, place the dried porcini in a bowl or a Pyrex measuring cup and cover with the water. Let soak 30 minutes. Line a strainer with cheesecloth and place over a bowl. Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out liquid. Rinse in a couple of changes of water and squeeze again. Chop coarsely and set aside.
3. Heat the oil over medium heat in a heavy straight-sided skillet or a wide saucepan and add the shallot. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 3 minutes, and add the garlic and thyme. Cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds, just until fragrant, and stir in the sliced cremini mushrooms and the chopped reconstituted porcinis. Cook, stirring often, until the fresh mushrooms have begun to sweat and soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the wine has evaporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Add the mushroom soaking liquid and the einkorn with its soaking liquid. Add salt to taste and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently, uncovered, stirring from time to time, until the einkorn is tender and most, but not all, of the liquid has evaporated, about 45 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings. Stir in the parsley and if desired, stir in some of the Parmesan (pass the rest for sprinkling). Serve in wide bowls or on plates.
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